Thursday, June 30, 2005

thunder

A month from today I'll be flying home.

Today there was thunder and lightning. I like this weather. I hope for one good knock-down, drag-out monsoon thunderstorm before I leave, preferably at night.

The job search is looking up again, but I'm not too hopeful.

This is a lull time. Nothing interesting to write about. I went to Damyang, a town a little north of Gwangju, on Tuesday for the provincial foreign-language contest. We had three students participating in English (I've been practicing with them daily for the past month or so) and two in Japanese. The day was ultimately boring for me, since I spent a lot of time waiting, but it wasn't too bad. I think at least one of our English students did really well, and will probably place.

I've been showing Pleasantville in my classes, a video without subtitles that Mom mailed me awhile ago. It's a compromise--I'm not grading them anymore, so I can't expect them to do something educational, but I feel better showing them something that requires some thought on their part (thus the lack of subtitles). Tonight I'm going to go see Batman Begins with the New Zealander that works next door at the boy's high school, and his wife. Tomorrow afternoon I'll go to Seoul to meet up with other ETAs and have one last Fulbright dinner. It'll probably be the last time I see the vast majority of the other Fulbright ETAs. It's a lull time, and that time when people are starting to disappear from your life, and you probably won't see most of them ever again.

Saturday, June 25, 2005

what you've all been waiting for

Me shooting an AK-47 at the Cuchi Tunnels in Vietnam.

It's actually a little anti-climactic, but kind of funny (the gun isn't locked in, so watch the attendant guy regulate as I try to get a good sight down the rifle). Thanks to Matthias for taking the video and sending it to me. And thanks to ourmedia.org for giving me a place to put it.

Friday, June 24, 2005

the moon is white in seoul, yellow in jeolla, and red in busan

It's officially sweltering here. Though I spend all day indoors, I'm somehow finding myself sunburned on my arms and face when I get home in the evening. Which means that the sun is intense enough to redden my skin during the twenty minute drive to work at 7:30 or 8 am, or the twenty minute drive home at 6 or 7 pm, or I need to stay away from windows when I'm circulating in the classroom.

Been pretty busy this week. Finished up my last week of doing graded assignments ever, with the performance test this week, and got all the grades into the spreadsheet. I really spend more time than is worth it worrying over the grades I assign these students, but I can't deny that school is basically their life. I've been keeping occupied in my off-time by absorbing as much Korean popular culture as I can, namely watching Korean movies and collecting Korean music on my computer. It's not like I won't be able to find this stuff in the States, but it seems better to get it while I'm here. Watch for accounts of me ingesting obscene amounts of Korean food at every sitting in the next few weeks because it's authentic (and cheap or free). Seriously, I have been thinking a little about things I'm going to miss when I go home (though I'll try to spare you some kind of sappy list), and one thing (besides, yes, kimchi) is two dollar breakfasts of rice cake and dumpling soup at hole-in-the-wall bus terminal restaurants (it feels strange to not call it ddeok mandu guk, but I think it's probably annoying for you miguks that I resist translation sometimes--the three of you that read this that is).

Anyway, what else to say? The job search has declined from promising to irritating, but I have a sweet, cheap apartment waiting for me in Portland. I'm looking forward to the rainy season starting. I'm going to Yeosu tomorrow evening to hang out with some other ETAs, and get a little break from the scene here. My students are still cute, if not cuter. South Korea is going to the World Cup. And I guess that's all.

Thursday, June 16, 2005

the NPR myth

I'm at school at the moment, which means I can't view my own blog and look at the archives, but I think I may have actually written a post on here griping about e-mail petitions, how they're sort of useless (I mean the ones where you add your name and address to the bottom of an evergrowing list that will supposedly be forwarded to someone at some point) and in particular the "Save NPR" e-mail that I discovered has been circulating for about a decade, even though it's no longer pertinent.

Well, now there's a new petition, and this one I have more faith in because it's a website petition as opposed to just an e-mail one. (And because it seems founded in reality--remember the controversy over showing a real-life lesbian married couple on a kid's show on PBS recently? And they have footnotes!). I feel like karma, if not simply social responsiblity, requires me to post it here, since I took the time to complain about the fake one.

Subject: This time, it's for real: Save NPR and PBS

Hi,

You know that email petition that keeps circulating about how Congress is slashing funding for NPR and PBS? Well, now it's actually true. (Really. Check at the bottom if you don't believe me.)

Sign the petition telling Congress to save NPR and PBS:

http://www.moveon.org/publicbroadcasting/

A House panel has voted to eliminate all public funding for NPR and PBS, starting with "Sesame Street," "Reading Rainbow," and other commercial-free children's shows. If approved, this would be the most severe cut in the history of public broadcasting, threatening to pull the plug on Big Bird, Cookie Monster, and Oscar the Grouch.

The cuts would slash 25% of the federal funding this year—$100 million—and end funding altogether within two years. The loss could kill beloved children's shows like "Clifford the Big Red Dog," "Arthur," and "Postcards from Buster." Rural stations and those serving low-income communities might not survive. Other stations would have to increase corporate sponsorships.

Already, 300,000 people have signed the petition. Can you help us reach 400,000 signatures today?

http://www.moveon.org/publicbroadcasting/

Thanks!

P.S. Read the Washington Post report on the threat to NPR and PBS at:

http://www.moveon.org/r?r=745

Wednesday, June 15, 2005

conversations

Something that's occured to me recently in my conversations with Koreans, mostly with my host mother, is that I've picked up certain habits in speaking, of saying "unh" and "yeh" a lot during conversations. I think this is sort of a Korean habit, but I wonder if my host mother does it more than average Koreans. "Active listening" has sort of taken on a new meaning for me here---it seems like there's rarely any sort of silence in conversation. But it is useful to have a sort of neutral word to use when there's nothing else to say, particularly when conversation is sort of awkward or doesn't follow what I would consider a logical sequence. For instance a conversation I had with my host mother a few minutes ago about the fact that her cell-phone, which was left in the living room overnight, went into wake-up call mode at 4 am this morning, playing loud music.

Me: The wake up call on your cell-phone went off at 4 am this morning.
Mrs. Lee: My cellphone? My cellphone was here this morning (gestures to the floor near her bedroom door).
Me: Yes, I put it there. I didn't know how to turn it off.
Mrs. Lee: Ah. I heard it there this morning.
Me: (good-humoredly) Yeh. Yeh. (or 예, 예, essentially 'yes' in Korean).

It's actually become quite natural for me to end a conversation that way. I would even say that the above conversation represents a perfectly normal conversation between Mrs. Lee and I, though if I'd had a conversation like this back in August I may have been sort of confused about how to proceed. For instance, since English isn't a very easy way for Mrs. Lee to communicate with me, English conversations with her often seem by default to be weightier or more important, even if it's just something like "I can't find the laundry detergent." So the way that I say, "Yes, yes," at any point in the conversation, my tone when I say it, shows her how I'm feeling about the situation--how much attention she needs to pay to me. Similarly, by throwing in an "unh" everytime she ends a sentence, generally when we're talking on our way to work, shows her that I understand what she's trying to say (she's actually a bit insecure about her English) as well as that I'm interested and paying attention. I don't know if this habit will actually stick with me long when I get back to the States, I'll probably be embarassed and drop it pretty quickly since I think most Americans would find it sort of odd.

I didn't mean to devote so much space to that, I actually came on today because I wanted to write about an interesting conversation I had this morning with Mrs. Lee during our drive to work. Mrs. Lee's husband's family name is Lee, but so is her maiden name. There's a sort of young married couple who teach at our school, and when Mrs. Lee referred to them with separate family names, it piqued my curiosity. This morning I asked Mrs. Lee if Korean women generally take their husband's family names and she laughed and said that they never do. Until recently Korean children were required by law to have their father's family name, regardless of whether or not their mother remarried, but feminists fought to change the law, and now the child can choose to take their father's name or their mother's name or their stepfather's name. Part of the impetus for this change was that children of divorced parents were embarassed in school, because if their mother remarried it would be obvious to anyone that the child's original parents were divorced.

Then Mrs. Lee started talking about the Lee family name, which I think is the most common surname in Korea. When my friend Billie visited from Busan, she and Mrs. Lee discovered that they are descended form the same Lee bloodline (there are two in Korea). Mrs. Lee and her husband are from different Lee bloodlines. Long ago, Lees from the same bloodline (Boeun or Kyeonggi) were forbidden by law to marry, though that's been overturned now. Still, Mrs. Lee was relieved when she discovered she and her husband were from different lines. Then she started to explain something about names that I'm still not quite clear on; that certain name syllables are significant to the different Lee lines, that men are given a particular syllable (all Korean given names are two syllables) and women a particular syllable, and this denotes some kind of status amongst the Lees. I took this opportunity to ask Mrs. Lee if there's a particular reason all of her daughters have Seo as their initial syllable, and she said Seo wasn't significant to the Lee name. But actually, her husband decided on Seo because he decided that the Boeun Lee syllable for girls, which is Eun, wasn't a good syllable so he didn't want to give it to all the daughters. (Mrs. Lee made it sound as if they'd decided on the names before any of their children were born, but I guess they must have decided on a set for boys, too, since I doubt they were expecting to have three girls). So he spoke to his father about it, and they decided on Seo. The progression was going to be Seo In, Seo Eun (a nod to the line) and then Seo Young. The first born was named Seo In, and when the second came along they skipped to Seo Young. Then the last was born, and they decided that Seo Eun wasn't a good name because it resembled Seo Oon too much in pronunciation, and Seo Oon means "unlucky." So finally they decided on Seo Jin.

And then the most interesting part of this whole conversation was when Mrs. Lee said:

"With Seo Jin, we took a long time to decide on the name and so we were fined."

I don't think she mentioned the amount of the fine, but apparently if you take more than a month to decide on a name and register the government fines you. Maybe this happens in the States too but it seems strange to me. Mrs. Lee said that long ago (that vague and misty time that can mean a few decades or a few centuries) families might take several months before they registered the child's name, thus her husband's birth certificate has his birthday as a year later than it actually is (I don't know if it actually took his family an entire year register him or if the clerk just doesn't bother to look at the month and day of birth and just fills in whatever year it happens to be at the time). Her husband was originally bothered by this, but now he says its fortunate because it means he can retire a year earlier.

In other news, I unexpectedly found myself teaching what may be one of my last actual lessons of the year. I'll still be doing something with my students for the next month or so, but the teachers expect the grades from me sooner this semester, so next week I'll give the performance test and by the end of next week turn in all the grades for the students. Finals are in the beginning of July, but there are still about three weeks of school in the next month and a half, so I guess I'll be playing games or maybe showing more movies--anything that will keep their attention once the grade incentive is gone.

I had a funny moment in class today, when I handed out a worksheet and a particular student did the usual, "Teeeacher, diffiiicult." I said, "You say that every day," and the class erupted in laughter. Then I started to turn red, as I always do when the students unexpectedly actually pay attention to me, and the particular student, in mid protest, said, "Tamara, you are red, Tamara." And I said, "I turn red every day." And again the students started laughing. And I had to put my head down on the desk and try to will my face to turn pale. I know I can do it. I did it once inadvertantly, when I turned red and then instantaneously turned very serious again (the gaps of "Oh! Whitening!" almost made me lose it) and I decided recently that this is something I need to conquer. It's really gotten out of hand, and it bothers me more because though I am prone to blushing, and when I do blush I turn really red, it really rarely happens in normal social interactions but it occurs a ridiculous amount when I'm in the classroom. I think it got even worse when I hit a point of not caring and basically expecting myself to blush (facilitated a bit by the fact that my students blush a lot too and make a big show of fanning their faces when they're embarassed, instead of say, hiding it). So now I'm trying to get it back under control. Putting my head down the desk probably isn't the best way to go about it though.

Interrogation


Interrogation
Originally uploaded by TJF.

Monday, June 13, 2005

오늘

Today I had my last Korean class over at the university. We reviewed how to say "since" by adding nikka (니까) to a verb. When I had to make up my own sentence, with my teacher's help I wrote:

한국 사람은 작으니까 내가 커보의다.

(hanguk sarameun jakeunikka naega keoboeuida).

(Korean people small thus, I big seem).

Since Korean people are small, I seem big.

I got a certificate from Suncheon University stating that I've completed 60 hours of Korean instruction. I think the class was pretty much intended to help foreign students meet some kind of Korean learning requirement, but no one seemed to mind me being the only American and English teacher in the class. I don't know if the certificate will serve me in the future (the only references to me in it are my birthdate and first name Koreanized: Tae Meo Reo--the Romanization eo sounds like 'uh.'). But it comes in a nice blue hardbacked folder.

For the last hour of class we sat and ate french fries in the cafeteria--the three students (from China, Japan and the U.S.) and our teacher. We talked a little in Korean but at the end we were discussing the popularity of cell-phones in our respective countries, in English. Maybe it was just where I went to school, but when I left the States I thought that some college students and some high school students had cellphones, and it was growing, but it wasn't too wide-spread. I was amazed by how many young people had cell-phones when I got to Korea, but apparently it's not that different in China or Japan. I don't know, maybe there are fifth-graders with cellphones in the U.S. and I'd be aware of this if I hadn't spent the four years prior to Korea living in a cave where any unabashed display of materialism, even the practical kind, was greeted with cringing and hissing.

Today was also the first day of my school's sports competition, where the different classes compete in various different sports. I discovered at the end of last week that I was the judge for the 'aerobic dance' competition--which basically means I had to watch 9 different groups of 12-17 students imitate music videos. It was alternately unsettling and impressive--I mean, they really have those sexy moves down, but with a sort of stoicness that almost makes you believe that it's just part and parcel with the 'sport' and they don't get the connotations. It's less disturbing when you see 17 year-olds doing it as opposed to 8 and 9 year-olds graders, as I have unfortunately witnessed, but still, my Christian missionary school never ceases to amaze me.

Initially I'd thought that I was judging it with another teacher, but unfortunately I realized at the end that I was the only judge. This was probably actually fortunate, because if I'd known beforehand that it was my sole responsibility to choose a winning team from amongst all of my cute, dedicated, hopeful students, I probably would have choked. As it was two teams came up at a tie, and before fleeing the scene, I chose as the winner the team that stood out in my memory the most. Since I had my Korean class in twenty minutes, I managed to leave before the announcements were made, though I guess that tomorrow and all this week I'll be confronted with numerous disappointed girls.

Thursday, June 09, 2005

Today the weather felt like Ho Chi Minh City

I just came from putting things in a box to mail home--came to the computer because I've been meaning to do an entry all week and finally I just felt like going and doing it now, even though I'm writing just to write, not to record the numerous things from last weekend that I've been meaning to record. I was putting things away in this box that will take six weeks to reach the States, things that I don't think I'll have a use for for the next seven weeks---books I've already read, my bulky headphones that I don't need anymore now that I have an iPod (thanks again, readers who made that possible, namely those related to me), the complimentary clay bowl from the coffee shop I went to with that nameless boy several weeks ago when he had a rental car and we went driving at night.

I wanted to write about last Saturday, when Rachel and I went to the army base in Itaewon to eat with other ETAs and Embassy staff, and how the meal was mediocre but the vibe was striking. It was like an entire small town in America, with the streets narrowed and the spaces between the buildings condensed, ringed with the walls of a fortress. There was Seoul American Middle School two steps away from Seoul American High School. As we left the fancy hotel that housed the restaurant (and other services--I saw a sign that said, "Brenda's Birthday," like a public service announcement of a base-wide celebration) another ETA pointed and said, "Look, a U.S. post office box!" and I, unabashedly, asked, "Where?" and glanced around. For the first time ever, Americans outnumbered Koreans and I felt both oddly inconspicuous and oddly conspicious, because I wasn't millitary, I didn't fit in, I was just here for an overpriced American buffet. For some reason it felt ironic that the gates we entered and left through were manned and guarded exclusively by numerous Korean military and police. One said some English greeting to us as we left and laughed, in the typical way that I encounter every day, and I thought, "This is your job. Do you do this with every American that walks through?"

And then Sunday. (I got interrupted just now. Seo Jin likes to ask me to write things in cursive for her, though I can't remember how to do capital letters for the life of me. I had to fetch a birthday card from my grandparents for reference--for longer than I've been alive my grandmother has been signing everything in beautiful calligraphy. The phrase Seo Jin wanted was 'Green Tea' in green marker on a small strip of paper.) What can I write about Sunday? Back over winter break Rachel volunteered at the House of Sharing, a home for Korean women who were enslaved by the Japanese military for prostitution during the colonial period, a place for people to visit and see the museum and hear the testimonies of the grandmothers (halmonis). Rachel was going to spend Sunday night there, at the house a short distance from Seoul, since Monday was a holiday. Some small part of me was afraid of going to the House of Sharing, I think, but when Rachel encouraged me one last time on Sunday night, as the two of us and Billie and Tae Jun sat in a teashop in Insadong, I realized something. It occured to me that I needed to go, not just for the common-sense reasons that took me to the House of Sharing back in November (hearing the stories of the halmonis, recognizing the crimes done against these women) but because I've been feeling selfish lately, preoccupied with myself maybe is a better phrase, too inside my own head, thinking about my own comforts and everything I'm looking forward to in the States. And I'm glad that I went, though I wasn't expecting to find myself sitting around with Koreans in my own age group, talking about U.S. and Japanese and Korean history, and later even talking about movies and music. I met a guy who could speak Vietnamese but little English, though his English listening skills were about on par with my Korean listening skills--thus we understood each other when he warned me to stop calling the city I visited in January 'Saigon,' or some Vietnamese would get angry. I met a 19 year-old university student who bought 'In Utero' at a music store in Rome when he was 15 because he liked the cover, and now cites it as some of his favorite music; who wants to serve his upcoming mandatory 2 years of military service being a firefighter in part because it seems potentially hypocritical to be enraged by what the Japanese military did to these women, and at the same time buy into ardent Korean nationalism and militarism, and as a firefighter 'you might see dead bodies but it's better than learning how to kill people.'

I want to write more, but it would take awhile, and I just want to try to capture the essence of it. I met the halmonis (the grandmothers, women who have been going to Seoul every Wednesday for years and years to protest in front of the Japanese Embassy, asking for an apology) but mostly I just sat quietly near them while they watched TV. When I came into the house on Sunday at dinnertime and sat down, one halmoni reached over and pulled her hand along my ponytail, and I wished I could have communicated my appreciation somehow.

We left Monday after lunch. Mario, a Japanese man who has been at the House as a volunteer for a long time and intends to stay until either the Japanese government makes amends or all the halmonis die, drove us and the Korean students to the bus stop, and made Billie, Rachel and I promise to come back and visit again in the next couple months. I hope to. It was comfortable there, so peaceful, I want to experience that again.

It really feels like summer these days. I have this strange sense of deja vu, seeing the seasons in Korea come back around. Today the weather was oppressive, oddly hazy but at the same time the sun was hot, and coupled with the growing humidity it felt stuffy. I left the teacher's room to stand outside at one point but I still felt like the air was thin (or too thick). I went to the hospital with my host mother this afternoon. She has a sort of condition, it's like chronic fatique syndrome and involves the thyroid I think, I can never understand her when she tells me the name of it. Recently her mouth has been swollen and her white blood cell count was low, so she went back to the doctor yesterday for some tests. Today he told her she had to come in to talk to him about the results, he couldn't discuss them over the phone. We dropped by the hospital on the way back from work, and just as I was wondering if she was relieved to have me as company, she admitted to me that she was feeling upset. Though she said so very calmly, I figured she must really have been nervous to actually put it into words. While we were waiting outside the office for her to be called in, she suddenly got up and hurried to the bathroom (not for any urgent reason I think) and I knew she must be nervous. It seems like anxiety makes us more aware of our bodies, of the potential for mundane things that we don't often think about, like the processes of our bladder.

By the time she went in I was thoroughly nervous myself. She was in there for awhile, and I wondered how I would react if she was diagnosed with some chronic illness. I tried to comfort myself with the thought that if there was some chance of an abnormality, they would run more tests first before any diagnosis. My host mother finally came out, gave me a wry smile that feigned annoyance but read more like relief, and said that she had to have blood drawn again. We went to the blood drawing center, which was a small, office-like room with one technician sitting at a desk. When my host mother went in and sat down I followed. It's odd watching someone else get blood drawn. I watched the needle, not her face, though most of the time I watched what appeared to be a urine sample, with no cover, sitting on a tray along with a syringe of blood, atop the desk across from me.

On the way to the car Mrs. Lee told me that earlier results had indicated that "all the components" of her blood were lower than average, and I puzzled over what that meant. I guess we'll see next week.

Wednesday, June 01, 2005

A proverb

This week I'm doing a proverb lesson from the ETA Handbook, but I added an assignment. The students have to write a sentence describing a situation that would apply to the proverb. One girl came up with a sentence that, grammatical errors aside, ran something like, "My friend wants to die and one day my friend dies. I don't feel regret." The proverb: no use crying over spilt milk.

It struck me particularly because I've heard of a few different cases, here in Suncheon and nationally, where young students have committed suicide because of the 'wonkda' issue--a type of exclusiveness within the students where often one student is shunned by everyone. I can't help but feel like this sort of view of death--this sort of shrugging it off--might contribute to this culture where a couple students committ suicide a year. But then again, I do think it is healthy to move on from something you can't change.